When I arrived at my hotel there was a couple unpacking bikes.. I asked if they were doing the same tour as me and they said yes! They had been cycling from Bangkok to Kathmandu via China and learned when they reached China that they could not enter or cycle in Tibet without being part…
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Tibet 1: Getting there
Greetings from the roof of the world! I’m in Lhasa, Tibet. Getting here was a fun but exhausting journey. I packed up my bike, then Robin and I boarded an afternoon train from Beijing for the 24h journey to Xining. The train ride was fun but long – we provided entertainment for a whole pile…
Weird things about this train…
Train K23, Beijing -> Ulaanbaatar, near the China/Mongolia border They changed the bogies on all the passenger cars a few hours ago. Now we can run on Russian-gauge track, which is different from the standard gauge used in China. Each car generates its own power via a generator on one of the bogies, rather than…
China 4: Hong Kong
Robin and I arrived in Hong Kong in the late afternoon, checked into our hostel in Kowloon, and explored the area a bit. We then headed to the waterfront for the Symphony of Lights before bed. The next day, I applied for my Russian visa then met up with Robin to explore Hong Kong proper….
Phase IV: Trans-Siberian
Train K23, Beijing-Ulaanbaatar The start of a new adventure… I’m spending the next few weeks taking the train to London via Mongolia and Russia. Nothing much is new so far. This is a Chinese-made train and I’m in "hard sleeper." Any other country would call this 3rd class, but China’s peculiar brand of communism doesn’t…
Phase IV: Trans-Siberian
Train K23, Beijing-Ulaanbaatar The start of a new adventure… I’m spending the next few weeks taking the train to London via Mongolia and Russia. Nothing much is new so far. This is a Chinese-made train and I’m in "hard sleeper." Any other country would call this 3rd class, but China’s peculiar brand of communism doesn’t…
Last call for postcards!
I just mailed another pile of postcards, written during my Tibet bike trip. I’m going to send one more pile from somewhere in Russia, so here’s your last chance… If you haven’t been getting postcards and you want to, let me know your address by email (scjody@modernduck.com) or by comment here (which is public.)
Tibet 7: Mountain passes and Zhangmu
June 13, 16:30: Just below Lalung Pass, 5282km from Shanghai, 4800m Morning: rolling hills (slight up), slight headwind.Afternoon: steep uphill, huge wind (mostly head.) We’re now camping in the valley between two passes. Tomorrow’s pass takes us to the world’s longest downhill! June 14, 13:00: Nylam, 3800m This morning we crossed Thang Pass (5050m), our…
China 5: Shanghai & Expo
From Hong Kong, I took the direct train to Guangzhou then boarded an overnight train to Shanghai – the direct HK – Shanghai train sells out days in advance (and only runs every 2 days. China FAIL.) On my first evening, I visited The Bund, the historical international/commercial district of Shanghai, where there are lots…
Tibet 6: Everest Base Camp to Tingri
June 11, 17:00: Rongbuk Monastery, 5150m Everyone is enjoying a much-needed break from cycling. Today we slept in, then some of us cycled to Everest Base Camp, which was just an 8km ride slightly uphill on gravel roads. There’s not much to see at EBC itself.. it’s not climbing season so nobody is actually camped…
Tibet 5: Shegar to Rongbuk
June 8, 13:00: China-Nepal Friendship Highway, 5085km from Shanghai, 4900m altitude Today we climbed from our camping altitude of 3960m to the 5220m Lakpa Pass. This was our hardest climb so far: about the same distance up as on day 2 but starting from a higher altitude. I could feel the air getting thinner during…
Tibet 4: Shigatse and on…
June 5, 14:30: Highway just outside Shigatse, 3860m We’ve stopped here to wait for the rest of the group so we can ride together to our hotel in Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. We’ve ridden 90km to get here, and our total ride will be 93km. The ride was easy and fun. Straight…
Tibet 3: Cycling Lhasa -> Gyantse
Greetings from Gyantse! I’m going to do something different for this part of the trip and post my blog entries whenever I have an Internet connection. Photos will follow later. I’m going to save China 4, 5 and Tibet 1, 2 until I get those photos done though… June 1, 20:30: foot of the Kamba…
China 6: Beijing, Great Wall, and Tianjin
From Shanghai, an overnight train took us to Beijing. Robin and I spent a week there, taking a much-needed break from moving around every day or two. I also had quite a bit to prepare for my upcoming bike and train trips, especially buying a bike and getting some riding in! We went for Peking…
China 3: Dali, Yangshuo
From Lijiang, we took an early day train to Dali. This train left an hour earlier than we thought.. the schedule had changed about 2 days before our trip! We made it though. The train ride was uneventful but it was neat to look out the window.. everything was new. The track from Dali to…
Hexie!
I’m on a “hexie” (He Xie Hao CRH3 EMU), the world’s fastest intercity train, from Beijing to Tianjin: 120 km in 30 minutes, at a top speed of 350 km/h (supposedly… but I didn’t see it go above 320 km/h.) Impressive numbers, but not really an impressive train network… because this service is all there…
China 2: Leap That Gorge!
Tiger Leaping Gorge Day 1: an early start to the day.. we left Mama Naxi’s Guesthouse in Lijiang at 7:30 in a minivan shared with 5 other hikers after one of Mama’s huge breakfast sandwiches. We arrived at Jane’s Guesthouse in Qiaotou just after 10, ready to start our hike. Unfortunately, Robin slipped on some…
Vietnam 3: Ha Long Bay and Sapa
We left Hanoi on a complicated trip to Cat Ba Town: bus, bus, boat, bus. Fortunately, this was all supplied on one ticket from one company, and wasn’t any more expensive than arranging it ourselves. Cat Ba Town is on one end of Cat Ba Island in Ha Long Bay. It’s mostly a destination for…
Made it to Lhasa
I’m currently in Lhasa.. I arrived 2 nights ago on the train from Xining. There’s much less Internet access here than in the rest of China, and I expect it to be even worse when I’m on my bike trip. Cell phone coverage is also likely to be poor. So expect delays if you send…
China 1: Kunming, Lijiang
Robin and I arrived in Kunming on May 2 after an exhausting overnight bus journey just in time to miss the one day train to Lijiang. Not to worry, there was just enough to see in Kunming for a pleasant day sightseeing before the night train. We visited the east and west pagodas, wandered around…